TR ENGINE/TRANS REMOVAL (by Ric Rainbolt)
The TR engine can be removed "at home", but extra care must be taken. The depth of usable space in your garage must be about 1.5 times the length of the car. The method I use is to place the front wheels on something about 4 inches high, like a suitably rated set of roller crate palettes (1200 lbs each) or some 2x8s or 2x10s. This way you can avoid removing the front sub-spoiler when you jack the back end up high enough to remove the engine. Here are the basic steps. Some may be slightly out of order.
battery by turning off the main switch in the front bonnet.
2) Remove the
rear bumper. Be prepared when you slide it out, as it's fairly
heavy. You'll need a soft place to set it in order to not scratch
3) Drain the
engine oil from the tank and the engine. Drain the coolant from the
radiators and the rear of the heads. The fuel tank needs to be less
than about 1/3 full.
4) Disconnect the
hoses and connections. These include: fuel lines, brakes, coolant,
air ducts, brake vacuum lines and oil lines. An extra large metric
wrench is needed for the large oil line fittings. There are several
fuel return lines between the motor and fuel tanks that are easy to
miss. On euro cars, there are two electrical harness to disconnect
plus the main battery clip (up near the oil tank). On US cars, I
think there are one or two more electrical connectors. Also, the
handbrake cable should be disconnected at the "U" pulley.
5) Put the
transmission in 2nd and disconnect the shift shaft without knocking
it out of gear. Once the shaft is disconnected, put the cockpit
lever in 3rd.
6) There is no
need to remove the rear wheels, half axles, oil tank, coolant
expansion tank, ignition modules, spark wires, ignition caps, etc.
7) Remove the
muffler(s). You should not have to remove to cats or the > headers.
> > 8) Place the front wheels on something about 4 inches high
(Boards, roller crate palette, etc).
9) There are 16
bolts in the front and about 6 in rear of the engine that hold the
engine sub-frame to the main chassis. I remove 3 bolts from each
cluster of 4 in the front, and all but the two rearmost bolts in the
10) Two nuts must
be removed from the top of each of the 4 rear shock absorbers. If
you clean that area off, you can tell which ones need to be removed
and which ones don't.
11) At this
point, you're ready to raise the chassis, while the engine sub-frame
stays on the ground. When the sub-frame is loose, it's
*front-heavy*, so you'll need some sort of support under the front
of the engine. I use a flat roller palette with a pair of 2x8's to
support the front of the engine.
12) Using two
floor jacks on opposite sides of the car, begin to raise the chassis
on the frame rail 'Y', just in front of the radiators. Only raise
the floor jacks just enough to support the chassis. Don't raise it
very much at this point (1/2 inch).
remove the remaining bolts holding the sub-frame. Keep in mind that
the sub-frame may shift so don't get any personal parts in between
anything that they might get smashed.
14) Slowly raise
the chassis off the engine sub-frame. If the sub-frame wants to stay
with the chassis, stop and find out why. DON'T KEEP LIFTING!
Sometimes, the threads on the shock absorber towers will hang on the
sheet metal, so be wary of that.
15) Once the
frame is about 6-8 inches above the sub-chassis. You have to roll
the engine back 4-6 inches to keep the transmission shift shaft from
16) As you roll
the engine back, the limiting factor will be: a) the clearance of
the wheel arches to the tires AND the right hand cam belt cover
clearing the oil radiator fan assembly. Letting some (not all!) of
the air out of the rear tires will gain you an extra inch or two for
getting the engine below the wheel arches.
18) Continue to
raise the chassis, keeping a careful eye for binding items > > or
forgotten hoses, wires, etc. Also, make sure the front sub-spoiler
doesn't reach the ground and get crushed.
19) Roll the
engine back and away from the car.
20) Lower the chassis and support it on jack stands.
a) You will get
fluid(s) everywhere. Without a chassis lift, I doubt it's even
possible to get a TR motor out without at least a little spillage of
b) The first time
I did this, it took about 20 hours total, and the intermittent help
(5 hours) of 3 other people. The second time I did this, I did it
entirely myself in about 7-ish hours. I recommend at least 2 people
be present (for extra eyes and for safety).
c) Have a good Halon fire extinguisher nearby, just in case.